Get ready to be dazzled, because Audemars Piguet just dropped a trio of new perpetual calendars that are anything but ordinary. But here’s where it gets controversial: one of them features an openworked version of their newest perpetual calendar movement, and it’s already sparking debates among watch enthusiasts. Is it a masterpiece of modern horology or a bold statement that’s not for everyone? Let’s dive in.
The star of the show is the new Caliber 7139, making its debut in both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak collections. This openworked movement is a follow-up to last year’s Caliber 7138, which was unveiled during Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary celebration in Le Brassus. At the time, the brand surprisingly kept the skeletonized version of the outgoing movement alive for one final limited edition—the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked '150th Anniversary'. Now, a year later, the openworked iteration of the corrector-free perpetual calendar movement is finally here, and it’s a sight to behold.
First up is the Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar Openworked (ref. 26443NB.OO.D002CR.01), a 41mm stunner that blends 18K white gold and black ceramic in a striking two-tone design. The black ceramic midcase contrasts beautifully with the white gold bezel and caseback, while the dial features a sapphire crystal with smoked accents and a black inner bezel for the 52-week indication. The moonphase is set against black aventurine, and the subdial hands sport bright red tips for enhanced legibility. It’s a watch that’s as functional as it is artistic.
Next, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked (ref. 26685XT.OO.1320XT.01) takes a different approach, encased in titanium with a Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG) bezel and bracelet studs. The subtle two-tone effect is a nod to last year’s farewell edition, but the real showstopper is the dial. Here, the four registers are framed in pink gold, matched with pink gold indices and hands. The moonphase features photorealistic moons in a warm, rosy hue against a blue aventurine backdrop. It’s a bold departure from the Code 11.59, proving that Audemars Piguet isn’t afraid to experiment.
And this is the part most people miss: while the openworked Cal. 7139 steals the spotlight, the non-openworked Cal. 7138 also gets its moment with the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in 'Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50' ceramic (ref. 26674CD.OO.1225CD.01). This is the first ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar to feature the new movement, and it’s a stunning continuation of the brand’s updated blue ceramic lineup. The matching blue grande tapisserie dial and inner bezel make this a monochromatic marvel.
Pricing reflects the exclusivity: the Code 11.59 Openworked is CHF 118,000, the Royal Oak Openworked is CHF 180,300, and the blue ceramic Royal Oak is CHF 133,900. While these aren’t exactly entry-level prices, they’re a testament to the craftsmanship and innovation behind each piece.
What do you think? Are these watches worth the hype, or is Audemars Piguet pushing the boundaries too far? Let’s debate in the comments. One thing’s for sure: these timepieces are a bold statement in any collection, and the openworked Cal. 7139 is a welcome addition to the brand’s repertoire. Now that the movement is here, what funky editions will Audemars Piguet surprise us with next?
The Basics
- Brand: Audemars Piguet
- Models: Royal Oak & Code 11.59
- References: 26443NB.OO.D002CR.01 (Code 11.59 QP Openworked); 26685XT.OO.1320XT.01 (Royal Oak QP Openworked); 26674CD.OO.1225CD.01 (Royal Oak QP Blue Ceramic)
- Diameter: 41mm
- Thickness: 10.6mm (Code 11.59); 9.5mm (Royal Oak)
- Case Material: White gold & black ceramic (Code 11.59); Titanium & BMG (Royal Oak QP Openworked); Blue ceramic (Royal Oak QP)
- Dial Color: Various
- Indexes: Applied
- Lume: Yes
- Water Resistance: 30m (Code 11.59); 50m (Royal Oak)
- Strap/Bracelet: Bracelet
The Movement
- Caliber: 7139 (Openworked); 7138 (Non-openworked)
- Functions: Hours, minutes, corrector-free perpetual calendar, moonphase
- Diameter: 29.6mm
- Thickness: 4.1mm
- Power Reserve: 55 hours
- Winding: Automatic
- Frequency: 28,800 VpH
- Jewels: 41
Pricing & Availability
- Price: CHF 118,000 (Code 11.59 Openworked); CHF 180,300 (Royal Oak Openworked); CHF 133,900 (Royal Oak Blue Ceramic)
- Availability: AP Boutiques & Retailers
- Limited Edition: No
For more details, visit Audemars Piguet’s official website.
